How to try easy silhouettes?

Indian cormorant

Indian cormorant, Munnar

  1. Find subjects with strong and definite shapes
  2. Use bright backlight eg. sun set or sun rise
  3. Choose to use spot metering or partial  metering and take the exposure reading from the background in case of sunrise, the bright sky or clouds
  4. Under expose the shot by one or two stops exposure for brilliant and strong colours.
  5. Focus on the subject carefully and let the edge of the shape is really sharp

    St. Augustine Church

    Ruins of St. Augustine Church, Goa

  6. Include some interesting foreground elements like shapely trees/buildings and let it get in the sky area of the shot.
  7. Try waiting for few birds or other activities as a part of the sky. This will avoid the emptiness and make the sky interesting

    Brihadeeshwarar temple Tanjavur Peria Koil

    Brihadeeshwarar temple, Tanjore

  8. If it is a twilight shot consider using a stable tripod to avoid camera shake.
  9. Avoid including moving objects while shooting in dawn. Birds in flight give a kind of blurry patches
  10. Consider off-shooting colours by shifting the white balance intentionally in to warm of cold feel. You can shoot using shade white balance and move the cursor in the white balance shift to amber side for warm silhouettes. Choosing to shoot in tungsten and move the cursor in the white balance shift to blue side for colder silhouettes.
  11. Shoot in RAW for better image variations through Camera Raw correction software.

    Shore temple - Mahabalipuram

    Shore temple, Mahabalipuram

for more examples of silhouettes click


Light meters

The ‘light meters’ (also known as ‘exposure meter’) are used in understanding the intensity of light that is required for getting the exposure ideal. ‘Exposure’ is about getting the desired brightness or darkness in our photos. In fact, I used to take pictures using cameras without built in light meters in early seventies.
The clue we had those days was the ‘Sunny Rule f/16’. The “Sunny f/16” rule,which says that your exposure on a normal sunny day will be 1 over the film’s ISO to be set as the shutter speed, with the aperture set at f/16.
This rule will hold good for most of the mid-tone subjects or scenes. If the scene does not contain the mid-tones, we compensate the exposure accordingly. We had neatly exposed pictures because, we thought for a while before we pressed the shutter. I had even met ace photographers of olden times, who could tell the ‘ideal exposure’ by just looking at the light falling on their palm!
In fact most of the modern cameras now have built in light meters. But, despite of the most advanced exposure meters with the ‘spot metering’ facility, many of our pictures are badly exposed. Most of the time, we feel that we couldn’t depend on these light meters. Some of us even blame the camera..!
The advanced light meter technology is a true gift to serious photographers who know to use it. For all others, ‘ideal exposure’ in photography is truly a nightmare.The automatic exposure compensation, automatic exposure bracketing (AEB/BKT), tonal values, mid-grey or 18% grey, grey card, zonal system, brightness histogram are few things to make our decision on a particular exposure OK. Let us learn to understand these light meters and metering principles to get the exposures right.
However, let us take the exposure meter readings just as a guideline and work for our desired effects in the pictures.
More than f-stops and shutter speeds, pens and papers, notes and strings, knives and clay, what matters is that the feel and mood of the photograph. Don’t you think that a dramatic ‘silhouette’ (an ‘underexposed subject’ in the shadow area against a bright background) is considered to be more artistic than a flat plain subject!
Photo courtesy: R.Preethaa Priyadharshini